Day 6: Heartwarming stories?

This morning we started with a guided walk along the "Mala" path. It started at the "Mala Carpark" which is where we were yesterday. Our guide's name was Mick. (No, not Mick Dundee.) He was white, but he'd been learning stories from the Anangu. By tradition, a story can only be told in the location in which it happened. I'm going to break that tradition by telling a few here.

I warn you, they're not happy stories. I realize that the Anangu have a very hard life out here in the wilderness, but even so, these stories really raised my eyebrows.

According to the Anangu, this cave (two holes on the right) was the home of Itjaritjari, who was an anthropomorphic marsupial mole. Totally blind, she lived here but dug many other caves at the base of Uluru. I'm told she was "playful".

You'll also notice several dark lines stretching from top to bottom in the photo. These are caused by bacterial growth due to water runoff. Remember what I said earlier about environmental impact of the runoff from the summit? It is suspected that human acts have increased the natural level of bacteria.

This species of tree is incredibly important to the Anangu. The bark has special properties. If you shave off a piece, you can dry it over a low fire and shape it into useful objects such as bowls, spear throwers, baby carriers, etc. And the tree will regenerate the bark.

This bush plant is also important to the Anangu. They use the spiny needles for many purposes. The guide told us that they're especially good for removing warts.

This was a "school". See all the writing on the walls? Anangu, especially the grandparents, shared their knowledge with the youngest generation by using cave drawings.

This cave picture means it's story time.

The Mala Story goes like this. The Mala people arrived at this spot at Uluru to perform a ceremony. Their law required that once the ceremony began it must be completed. People from the west arrived and invited the Mala to join their ceremony. The Mala had to refuse because their ceremony had already started. The other people took offense and conjured up an evil, black dog-like creature called Kurpany. Luunpa, the kingfisher bird, cried a warning to the Mala, but it was not enough. Kurpany attacked the Mala men, women, and children and killed many. The ones who escaped were chased south, with Kurpany attacking them all the way.

Lovely story, huh? Wait'll I tell you the one from my Base Walk...

This waterhole is called Kantju. It was the primary source of water for the Mala ceremony.

Here's our guide, Mick. He had lots of photos in his book of various native plants and animals. This one shows a nutritious grub. He passed around several everyday items the Anangu use (like a bowl and a spear thrower made from that tree bark). There's still an active Anangu community here. I think he said there were a few hundred members around Uluru and a few thousand throughout the Northern Territory.