After we saw the big kahuna (Zoser's funerary complex), we still had lots more to see at Saqqara.
The taxi dropped us off at the top of a hill and pointed in the direction we were supposed to walk for the Mastaba of Ti. Along the way, we encountered this strange rock formation. Given its location, and the dearth of information in the guidebook, I don't really know what it is. It could be caves where the followers of the Apis Bull Cult lived/worshiped. Or maybe it's just a rock. I wish the guidebooks had also been clearer on where to look for the Serapeum, also known as the Tomb of the Apis Bulls. We never found it. Even before the first pharaohs ruled Egypt, there were people living here. They developed several types of animal worship, including one that revolved around cattle. They believed that a special (possibly virgin) cow miraculously conceives and gives birth to an "Apis Bull". Afterward, the cow can no longer conceive. The bull is then worshiped during his lifetime as a sort of fertility symbol. When the bull dies, he is mummified, and his remains are put in a giant sarcophagus for eternity. The sarcophagus is then stored with the other Apis Bulls in an underground tunnel network called the Serapeum. Then a new cow gets pregnant through immaculate conception. The Apis Bull cult (as well as other animal cults devoted to dogs, ibises, cats, and even baboons) remained long after the last pharaonic dynasty had perished.
You think it's strange to see Greek Statues in the desert of Egypt?There is an explanation. The pharaohs were long gone, and the Ptolemies ruled Egypt, and still the pagan cults survived here. This "Philosopher's Circle" dates from that period.
This is the entrance to the Mastaba of Ti. Ti was a royal hairdresser.Ti's wife was of royal blood, but he himself was not. Nevertheless, he was given quite an impressive mastaba. As we entered, a "guide" seized upon this opportunity to start talking. And he didn't stop. It wasn't really English, but he was very insistent. I was trying to read aloud to Ma from one of my guidebooks, but the man just would not take a hint. I finally had to emphatically shush him so he would leave us in silence. Well, he didn't leave, but he did shut up...for a while.
The guidebook pointed us to the scenes engraved on the walls. One wall showed a hippopotamus hunt with Ti bringing the animal down with the help of a crocodile. Hippopotamuses were feared and reviled by the ancient Egyptians, whereas crocodiles were respected and admired.
After another short cab ride across the sands, we arrived at the "Teti" area. Teti was the first pharaoh of the 6th Dynasty (24th century B.C.). On the right (not pictured) is the pyramid of Teti. I use the word "pyramid", but it was hardly what you would expect. It was more like the "pyramid" of Unas: just rubble. But, the interior was awesome. I went alone. The descent was reminiscent of the Red Pyramid at Dahshur, only shorter. The main difference was that the burial chamber was much more impressive. There was a (damaged) black basalt sarcophagus with a little step provided so you could see down into it. The walls and ceiling were carved with stars and inscriptions. To the side (accessed through a small opening in the wall) was a small storeroom which once would have contained two large statues. The statues are now at the Egyptian Museum. There was a guide down there (of course begging for baksheesh), so I couldn't take any pictures.The structure on the left side of the photo is the Mastaba of Mereruka. He was a vizier (adviser) to Teti, and also his son-in-law. This labyrinth of 32 rooms had many fine carvings and featured a life-size statue of Mereruka himself.
There were also quite a few touts hanging about. Saturday's cab driver had used the words "monkey business". Today's cab driver kept repeating, "They're liars." Such interesting ways to describe them.
We missed the double Mastaba of Akhti-Hotep and Ptah-Hotep. There was so much to see at Saqqara and the signage was terrible. Plus, even if the signs had been in the right places, I'm not sure we would have wanted to walk a long ways to see it. It was located somewhere south of the road between the backside of Zoser's funerary complex and the refreshments hut. The double mastaba was supposed to have a lot of the same decoration as Ti's and Mereruka's, only better. Plus, it was unfinished, so we would have been able to see the various stages of carving and painting.
Well, I guess we'll just have to come back some day.
Our last stop at Saqqara was at the Imhotep Museum. The place looked brand new. Inside was a modest collection of old (6th Dynasty) and new (Ptolemaic) mummies, a few pieces of jewelry and surgical instruments, some green/blue faience panels, and lots of reconstructed stonework from the facade of Zoser's tomb. We also watched the short video narrated by Omar Sharif in the nice new auditorium building.We headed back to the hotel. Along the way, we asked the cab driver to stop so we could buy water from one of the local convenience stores (more like ramshackle huts along the road). He suggested he go buy the water, but we compromised by having him accompany me. He implied that it was not safe for me (and/or Ma) to go by ourselves.
We were back at the hotel by 3 pm, so we whiled away a few hours at the pool. Our time in Egypt was coming to an end. Tomorrow we would open a new chapter: Turkey.
