Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Day 13: On the road again

Our drive today will take us 468 km (290 miles) round trip. About five hours, you say? Try seven!

When I was putting together our itinerary, I remember thinking to myself, "Boy, those are going to be some grueling days in the car. Fourteen hours over two days? I hope this isn't an enormous mistake." But I went with my gut and decided that the long hours on the road would be worth it. I'm sure glad I kept everything in. Not only was it an opportunity to see some cool stuff we wouldn't have seen in Auckland, it forced us to "get out" and get a taste of local life. And the drive didn't feel that long to me. There was so much beautiful countryside to look at, the time just flew by.

Travelers' tip: When crossing the bridge on the Northern Motorway leaving Auckland, pick lane 1 or 2 (far left). Do not attempt any of the center lanes like I did.

I about had a heart attack while crossing the bridge. It was so narrow and the opposite traffic was inches away from you.

Right after this bridge you had to make a choice. Either stop in Dairy Flat and pay the toll (yes, you actually have to pull off the road and get out to pay the toll; there are no toll booths), or use the free "scenic" bypass. Ahem, it was scenic all right. You could see straight down to the bottom of the chasm you were precariously driving along.

I'm probably making it sound awful, but it wasn't so bad.

The green in this picture doesn't do it justice. It was the "greenest" green ever.

I have to say a few words about the condition of the roads. They were in good repair, but there's no way the U.S. would have put up with them. Too steep. Too narrow. Too curvy. Too slow. The lanes were barely wide enough for our subcompact car. I would hold my breath when we passed logging trucks and tour buses (or when they passed us!). The road clung to the sides of cliffs. The hairpin turns had Ma clutching the door handle which, in her words, "kept the car on the road". The speed limit varied between 35 kph (21 mph) for the tight corners and steep grades, and 110 kph (68 mph) for the few open flat parts, with the most common speed limit being 80 kph (50 mph). The majority of the journey consisted of one lane in each direction, punctuated by a periodic third passing lane. The passing lane was clearly marked for use for a single direction. But the Kiwis routinely used it for both directions. It's a wonder these people survived.

The constantly changing weather surprised us with clear skies followed by stupendous rainbows.

Oooh. Pretty.

This thatch-covered structure is the Hundertwasser Toilets in Kawakawa. It was a quick pit stop a dozen or so kilometers south of Paihia.

Friedensreich Hundertwasser was an eccentric designer from Austria. His works can be seen anywhere from Vienna to Osaka. But he made the tiny burg of Kawakawa his home for 27 years. He designed these public toilets which showcased his signature style consisting of wavy lines, white tile, and colored glass objects.

Quirky. Asymmetric. Very cool.

The bathroom wasn't very big, but it was unique.

Check out the toilet. It had a polished wood seat. It was a nice contrast against all that ceramic and glass.

Recycling can be beautiful. I think I'll just grab all the spare materials from my last remodel and turn them into a masterpiece. Just kidding.

At last. Arrival in Paihia. The first thing I wanted to do was stick my hand in the Bay of Islands.