Istanbul is divided into three parts, each separated by water. We'll visit all three parts today. The first part, known as the Old Town, is where our hotel was located. Many tourists who come to Istanbul never leave the Old Town. That's a pity. Across the Bosphorus Strait is Asian Istanbul. Yes, it's actually on a different continent. The third part, back on the European side, is across the Golden Horn (the "Haliç" in Turkish) from the Old Town. That part is known as the New District.
Our first day in Istanbul started with a tram ride to the end of the line, Kabataş, to visit to the Dolmabahçe Palace in the New District.
You're perhaps wondering about those accent marks. Pretend they are an "h". So, a "ç" makes a "ch" sound, and "ş" makes a "sh" sound. And there's a difference between the dotted "i" and the un-dotted "ı". The former makes a long "ee" sound. The latter makes an unstressed vowel sound, similar to "uh". And "c" makes a "j" sound and "j" makes a "zh" sound. Oh yeah, and "ğ" is silent. Don't you love Turkish!? When spoken, it has the same sort of melodic lilt that French does. The best news of all: it's totally phonetic. Sometimes I wonder how anyone speaks French or English with all their funny pronunciations.
Okay, enough linguistics. Let's switch to history. The Ottoman sultans were losing their grip on power in the mid-19th century. They had long ago become the butt of jokes in Europe for their backwater "oriental" style. So they decided to spend every last penny on a magnificent palace in the New District of Istanbul. They tried their darnedest to make it the most over-the-top opulent palace in the European Rococo style.
The walkway leading to the palace is lovely. There isn't a speck of litter anywhere. Istanbulians can (and do) take pride in their city.
Our first day in Istanbul started with a tram ride to the end of the line, Kabataş, to visit to the Dolmabahçe Palace in the New District.
You're perhaps wondering about those accent marks. Pretend they are an "h". So, a "ç" makes a "ch" sound, and "ş" makes a "sh" sound. And there's a difference between the dotted "i" and the un-dotted "ı". The former makes a long "ee" sound. The latter makes an unstressed vowel sound, similar to "uh". And "c" makes a "j" sound and "j" makes a "zh" sound. Oh yeah, and "ğ" is silent. Don't you love Turkish!? When spoken, it has the same sort of melodic lilt that French does. The best news of all: it's totally phonetic. Sometimes I wonder how anyone speaks French or English with all their funny pronunciations.
Okay, enough linguistics. Let's switch to history. The Ottoman sultans were losing their grip on power in the mid-19th century. They had long ago become the butt of jokes in Europe for their backwater "oriental" style. So they decided to spend every last penny on a magnificent palace in the New District of Istanbul. They tried their darnedest to make it the most over-the-top opulent palace in the European Rococo style.
The walkway leading to the palace is lovely. There isn't a speck of litter anywhere. Istanbulians can (and do) take pride in their city.
That's not a statue. That's a real police dude.This is the entrance gate to the palace. The doors are painted wrought iron. Visiting dignitaries would have used these gates.
Impressive detail. This would have been the gate through which the royal family passed if they were arriving by land.
This was a real clock made out of white stones and red flowers.
Here we are in the gardens. Nice, huh? By this point in our travels we were experts on finding ways to take pictures of ourselves. This picture was taken from on top of a recycle bin (yep, Turks recycle).
The palace had amazing gardens.
There was some restoration work going on, but it didn't detract much from the overall effect.
They didn't want you just wandering around inside the palace. Instead, everyone took a guided tour in English or Turkish wearing these little plastic booties.The palace had two parts: the selamlık (administration) and harem (residence).
While every part of the palace was outstanding, the most memorable room for me was the mammoth Ceremonial Hall. The sultan could entertain 2,500 people here. Its crystal chandelier weighs four tons.
Despite Western imaginations, the harem was not a playground for hundreds of scantily clad young women. The harem was simply where the sultan's family lived, especially his mother, his wives, and his favorites. Women were kept separate from visitors and administrators to protect their honor. The sultan could have four wives and four favorites (mistresses). He often had hundreds of concubines (slaves he didn't sleep with) who rotated as favorites, chosen by his mother or his wives.
While every part of the palace was outstanding, the most memorable room for me was the mammoth Ceremonial Hall. The sultan could entertain 2,500 people here. Its crystal chandelier weighs four tons.
Despite Western imaginations, the harem was not a playground for hundreds of scantily clad young women. The harem was simply where the sultan's family lived, especially his mother, his wives, and his favorites. Women were kept separate from visitors and administrators to protect their honor. The sultan could have four wives and four favorites (mistresses). He often had hundreds of concubines (slaves he didn't sleep with) who rotated as favorites, chosen by his mother or his wives.
This was the back porch, so to speak. The guided tour let out here after the great little gift shop. It overlooked the Bosphorus Strait. It reminded me a little bit of Versailles.
Yeah, I could get used to living here.